13-4-15 Indian Marble Center, Shop # 70, Taj Mahal, Agra, India
I took a packed 2nd class train from Sanchi to Agra, and while on the train, I had the opportunity to read Rahul’s short story in Hindi out loud. I picked up a few new Hindi words along the way. When I arrived in Agra, it was around 1:00 AM. I had to sprint away from the aggressive rickshaw gangs as I walked through the empty streets, picking up stones to defend myself from packs of dogs protecting their territory.

Sleeping on a mosquito-swarmed bench begging for the sunrise
As I tried to sleep on a bench, swarms of mosquitoes kept me awake. Instead of catching some shut eye, I sat on the steps of an Indian Marble Shop, waiting for the Taj Mahal to open at 6:00 AM and watched eager food salesmen set up for the day’s tourist crowds. The thick swarms of mosquitoes dampened my spirit, but I was simply there to check off the Taj Mahal from my bucket list. I didn’t expect to end the day any happier than before, but I hoped to fulfill my “Oh the places you’ll go” quest.


As I live more humbly than the locals here in India, I realized I need to get a blanket or a small tent to successfully sleep on the streets. While the absence of a comfortable bed, a full pantry, and the comforts of home make me question my decisions, I don’t expect any pity. Instead, India has hardened my soul and desensitized me to so much suffering. The water from the train station tap even tastes suspect.

14-4-15 Hazat Nizumuddin, New Delhi, India (400)
“In those days I used to travel alone, and had therefore wonderful experiences.”
– Gandhi
I entered the gates of the Taj Mahal yesterday just after 6:00 AM, pestered by a light, intermittent drizzle. Fortunately, I had my umbrella in my pack, which I lugged around all day.

As the Taj Mahal came into view, I stood in awe of its magical presence. The marble detail was so exquisite, it almost didn’t look real. I walked around the inside, understanding the hype surrounding this magnificent structure. As I walked out, I knew I would likely never lay eyes on this site again, so I sat and gazed at it for a few moments, etching the memory in my mind.

On my way to the bus stand, I walked past Agra Fort and took a rickety bus to Mathura. I walked to the point of exhaustion trying to find a cheap hotel, but it proved impossible. Fatigue and frustration hit their peak, and I ended up standing in a long cue for a last minute change of plans – onward to New Delhi.





